ABI WILSON –
HEAD OF BUYING & DESIGN – CELEBRATIONS
SAINSBURY’S ARGOS & HABITAT November 2023
ª About me
ª The Commercial team – roles & responsibilities
ª The Buying cycle
ª Framework, range creation & selection
ª Production & delivery
ª Trade & review
ª Questions
ABI WILSON –
HEAD OF BUYING & DESIGN – CELEBRATIONS
SAINSBURY’S ARGOS & HABITAT
Creative not clever. Committed. Customer. Driven. Inclusive. Sustainable.
MERCHANDISING • Commercial KPI
• Budgets
• Stock management
DESIGN • Product design /development
• Print & fabric
• Trend & innovation
DITIGAL • Digital trading
• Digital content
COMMERCIAL TEAM: ROLES & RESPONSIBILITIES
TECHNOLOGY
• Product technology
• QC
• Ethical
• Legislation
BUYING
• Product Proposition
• Commercial KPI
• Sourcing
• Rate / COGs
BUYERS ADMIN
ASSISTANT BUYER
BUYER
SENIOR BUYER
HEAD OF BUYING
DIRECTOR
• 5 years +
• 2 years +
• 2 years +
• 12-18 months
The commercial team is split into different functions, who collaborate together to deliver the trade plan
There are typically 6 levels of experience & role in each of the areas
The product life cycle –
from strategy &
concept to launch &
trade performance.
TREND & INNOVATION: MARCO TREND, LIFESTYLE, FUTURE FORCASTING. TRADE SHOWS,
INSPIRATION, TREND BOOKS, REPORTS & STREET STYLE
Design & innovation
gather future view
influences to collate
new season direction.
This will include lifestyle
& product trend &
generalised content for
a broad category use
DESIGN PRESENTATION: CREATING CUSTOMER STYLE PREFERENCE, OR DESIGN
COLLECTION THEMES FOR USE ACROSS TOTAL
CATEGORIES FOR FUTURE TRADING SEASON – EG AW24
– TYPICALLY 12-18 MONTHS AHEAD.
Strategy is a collaborative piece across all commercial stakeholders, typically lead by Buying & Merchandising and sets the clear
financial objective for the future season, which is set against the annual budget, & presented for approval to the HOB /HOM or
Director, and will feed into a wider business strategy & financial metric. Design presentation is alongside to lead product direction.
STRATEGY: IDENTIFYING THE FINANCIAL PURPOSE,
SEASONAL REVIEW, NEW INSIGHT & OPPORTUNITY – THE
‘WHAT’, ‘WHY’ & ‘HOW’ TO PRODUCT & RANGES.
IDENTIFYING REQUIREMENTS TO DELIVERY & KEY
STAKEHOLDERS
FRAMEWORK: PLOTTING OPTIONS & FINANCIALS AGAINST RANGE SEGMENTS IN ORDER TO MEET
CUSTOMER NEEDS & DELIVER FINANCIAL METRICS
Identifying the segmentation
of each range to meet
customer expectations &
deliver robust financial
outcome.
Considering –
ª Innovation direction
ª Historical data & new
insight
ª Market activity & comp
shops
ª Brand mix
ª Rate mix
ª Promotional activity
COST NEGOTIATIONS & SOURCING : BRIEFING & SOURCING PRODUCT TO DELIVER
FINANCIAL METRICS – USING AVAILABLE LEVERS
The costs of goods (COGs) is the term for cost price – all the variables which impact the product price.
As buyers, we are able to impact these using levers. These are the where we make choices on the different factors in
a product to impact the final price we pay. This is a key part of buying – & other stakeholders contribution.
EG The same item could be made in India or China, but one country has preferable duty, the other has favourable
shipping time – when both samples arrive – one is stronger, and therefore your lever may change in order to obtain
the best product, on time, at the best value possible – it may not be the cheapest price.
OWN LABEL
LICENSE
BRAND
DIRECT SOURCE
DIRECT IMPORT
DOMESTIC
F O
B
IN T
O D
C
F R
E IG
H T
–
T R
U C
K /
S E
A /
A
IR
OWN LABEL
LICENSE
BRAND
Consider – • Cost • Lead time • Cost of stock E2E • Freight variables – £ • FX impact • Duty • Quota
SOURCING: WHERE A PRODUCT IS PRODUCED & HOW IT LANDS IN TO RETAILER STORES & HUBS.
PRODUCT TECHNICAL PACKS: DESIGN PACKS ARE CREATED BY IN HOUSE DESIGN TEAM,
FREELANCE OR SUPPLIERS & TAKE CONCEPT THROUGH TO SPECIFICATION TO BE PRODUCED AS A
SAMPLE AT THE MANUFACTURERS SAMPLE ROOM.
Packs are typically graded
gold / silver / bronze, ABC
etc which refers to the level
of information required to
get the product right first
time.
The fewer samples required
manages cost.
As a buyer & designer you
will collaborate to decide
what brief spec is required
for each outcome
When suppliers create
briefed product its exclusive
to the retailer, and protected
design IP
When product is bought off
shelf – suppliers own
development, the IP needs
to be established &
assigned, or market &
available.
RANGE BUILD & SELECTION TAKING THE SAMPLES & BUILDING THE RANGE, USING THE FRAMEWORK & CONSIDERING THE KEY
CUSTOMER & COMMERCIAL PILLARS
PRODUCT MOVE ON: DESIGNS ORIGINATE FROM MANY SOURCES – BUT SOMETIMES IT’S A
SAMPLE AS ‘SAME BUT DIFFERENT’ – TO APPEAL TO THE SAME CUSTOMER, STYLE PREFERENCE, VALUE
POSITION & TIER LEVEL. THIS IS CALLED A MOVE ON – THINK OF IT AS YOUR FAVOURITE OUTFIT –
REFRESHED.
This is an example of a plinth
end of Christmas jumpers from
2021 & 2022 – with the same
space, same mission, & same
garment format – what would
you do next for this year?
TRADE & REVIEW: REVIEWING THE
PERFORMANCE
You are reviewing the performance of the ranges, and individual line level.
• Sales – the total sum of money taken
• Cash / Profit – the total sum of profit
• Cover – how many weeks stock do we have, if the rate of sale ROS
continues
• ROS – Rate of sale – how many units per week, per store sold
You will discuss –
• What has impacted trade – Stock, presentation, market, weather, mindset,
fit, price
• What trade actions need to happen next eg promotion, images, price
action, rebuys – positive change to drive profit activity.
Trade is reviewed every week, every event, & trade cycles in your
business – ie Monday morning, Easter, plinth space change etc
Which of these sold best & why?
TRADE & REVIEW: WHAT NEXT?
OVER PERFORMING…
• Do you have enough stock to continue?
• Do you have more stock on the way?
• Is there another item planned? Colourway? Similar style? – Perhaps we
need to buy more…
• What is the lead time
• Should we change anything
• What would seasonal impact be?
MISSING PLAN…
• Why isn’t it selling? Size / fit / as planned / price / seasonal impact /
duplication etc
• What action can be taken? Price change / promo / link sale etc
• What else might be impacted- make amends
• Impact to future stock – delay, slow boat, discuss with factory
Case study…
Hot water bottle – £12
What happens next…?
FINAL POINTS & QUESTIONS….
THE LEARNS… Authentic – Brand, self aware
Kind is kweeen!!
Listen, learn, network
Always Customer / Mission
The gaps – spot them /delegate
STOP Mentor
What is the question you’re trying to answer?
Questions…?
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